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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.